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JOURNAL 


OF 


A TOUR TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 


IN JULY, 1784 


By JEREMY BELKNAP, D.D. 


^rcompantei fotti} a iftflap 


Printed from the Original Manuscript, with a Prefatory 
Note by the Editor 


BOSTON 

MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETY 

1876 


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JOURNAL 


op 

A TOUR TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 

IN JULY, 1784 


u 

By JEREMY BELKNAP, D.D. 

>1 


Printed from the Original Manuscript, with a Prefatory 
Note by the Editor ... 



BOSTON 

MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETY 

18T6 

33 '' 




From the u Belknap Papers” published by the Massachusetts 
Historical Society .. 



PREFATORY NOTE. 


Dk. Belknap’s account of his tour to the White Moun¬ 
tains, in July, 1784, is here printed from his original note¬ 
book, in the form of a diary, preserved in the cabinet of this 
Society. The narrative, or text, is written on the right- 
hand pages of the manuscript, and occasional remarks, 
some of them perhaps subsequently written, on the left. 
The greater part of these latter might have been intro¬ 
duced into the text, but we have preferred to let them 
stand as written, and have printed them here as foot-notes. 
The abbreviated words, which abound in the manuscript, 
have generally been spelled out at length, and a proper 
punctuation introduced, which, in the rough notes, was 
not always regarded by the writer. 

The several mountains known as the White Mountain 
group, the central cluster, had not been named at the 
time Dr. Belknap made this visit. Eight years later, as 
early certainly as 1792, the highest peak had been named 
“ Mount Washington.” 

In the third volume of Dr. Belknap’s History of New 
Hampshire, published in 1792, he gives a description 
of the White Mountains, and refers to the visit made to 



4 


• them by a party of gentlemen in 1784; but he gives no 
intimation that he was one of the party. A similar de¬ 
scription, previously written, had been communicated to 
the American Philosophical Society, at Philadelphia, and 
was printed, but without his consent, in the second volume 
of their Transactions, in 1786. Both these accounts, quite 
different in form from the Journal we here produce, con¬ 
tain additional particulars. 

Of three of the gentlemen who accompanied Dr. Belk¬ 
nap, it may be added that the Rev. Daniel Little was 
minister of the church in Kennebunk, Me., then included 
in the township of Wells; the Rev. Manassah Cutler, of 
Ipswich, was an early member of the Historical Society, 
one of the projectors of the Ohio Company, and distin¬ 
guished through life for his scientific attainments, particu¬ 
larly in the department of botany; Dr. Joshua Fisher, 
of Beverly, was a distinguished physician and naturalist, 
President of the Massachusetts Medical Society, and founder 
of a professorship in Harvard College. All these gentle¬ 
men were members of the American Academy of Arts and 
Sciences. 

This journey was made on horseback. Going up in the 
direction of Bartlett and Jackson, the party entered the 
defile now known as the “ Pinkham Notch; ” and, after 
having pitched their tent on the high ground between 
the Ellis and Peabody Rivers, prepared to ascend the great 
mountain on foot. Returning from this excursion, they 
proceeded on in the same direction as far as Dartmouth 
(now Jefferson), where they were refreshed at the planta¬ 
tion of Colonel Whipple, who had joined their party at 
Conway. Staying over one day, they set out the next 


5 


morning on their return; passed over a part of Pondi¬ 
cherry Mountain, crossed the river Amonoosuck, and ar¬ 
rived at the Western Notch, the source of the Saco River, 
through which they proceeded on their homeward way, 
making a complete circuit of the central group of the 
White Mountains. 

The earliest recorded ascent of the White Mountains 
was made in 1642, by “ one Darby Field, an Irishman, 
living about Pascataquack, being accompanied with two 
Indians.” They “ went to the top of the White Hill. He 
made his journey in 18 days.” This is the language of 
Governor Winthrop in his History (II. 67), who has re¬ 
corded the interesting details. This visit, or the record 
of it, was made in the month of June. Field repeated 
his visit “ about a month after.” A few months later, 
Winthrop notices another visit, made by Thomas Gorges 
and Richard Vines: “ They went up Saco River in birch 
canoes, and, that way, they found it 90 miles to Pegwag- 
gett, an Indian town; but, by land, it is but 60.” They 
seem, also, to have ascended the principal mountain. 
“ They went and returned in 15 days.” (Ibid. 89.) 

John Josselyn, who made a visit to New England in 
1638, and again in 1663, and published two books about 
the country, describes the White Mountains in a way a 
visitor to them would write; but, as he does not speak of 
having made the journey himself, he may have derived 
his information from others. He mentions some particu¬ 
lars not described by Winthrop. His account was printed 
in his “New England’s Rarities” published in London in 
1^72. 

From this time to that of Dr. Belknap’s visit, these 


6 


mountains had been frequently ascended, by ranging par¬ 
ties ; but no adequate description of them had been writ¬ 
ten. Dr. Cutler preserved some notes of this tour, as 
appears by a quotation from them by Dr. Belknap in one 
of his accounts of the mountains. 

Dr. Jacob Bigelow visited the mountains in the summer 
of 1816, and published an excellent description of them 
in the New England Journal of Medicine and Surgery, 
Yol. Y. p. 321-338. Since then numerous accounts have 
appeared. This whole region has become a favorite resort 
for summer retreat, as the Switzerland of New England • 
and numerous guide-books, including the luxurious vol¬ 
ume of the late Thomas Starr King, abound in descriptions 
of every group. A good map of the mountains, and the 
country surrounding them, is still a desideratum. 

The computations made by Dr. Belknap’s party as to 
the heights of the several mountains have since been 
shown to be erroneous. 

The very few foot-notes made by the editor, while thi^ 
journal was passing through the press, bear the distin¬ 
guishing mark. 

C. D. 

Cambridge, Mass., May 10,1876. 













Y * 0 





is being digitized, and 
;rted at a future date. 

























NOTE TO MAP. 



The map which accompanies this journal is a facsimile of one 
drawn by Dr. Belknap at the time, or rather copied by him from a 
plan in possession of Mr. Whipple, of Dartmouth, one of his com¬ 
panions on the route. This appears from the following extract from 
his letter to Mr. Hazard, of 19 Aug., 1784 : — 

“ For your farther gratification, I have copied a plan which I took 
from one in Mr. Whipple’s possession, shewing the course of the rivers 
and the situation of part of the mountains. His plan extended no 
farther north, so that the northern part of our circuit and his plan¬ 
tation are not comprehended in it. I have added the sketches of the 
appearance of the mountains on the east and the north-west, and 
marked their area as nearly as I could. The roads in which we 
travelled are marked with a pricked line.” 

Dr. Belknap’s map was sketched or copied with a 'pen as to the 
delineation of the rivers, &c., with their names and the names of the 
mountains ; but “ the appearance of the mountains ” and “ their 
area” were indicated with a lead pencil. These pencil marks are 
represented in the map herewith by stippling, or dots. 





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DR. BELKNAP’S 


TOUR TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 


Tuesday, July 20, 1784. Set out from home on a tour 
to the White Mountains, &c., in company with Rev. Mr. 
Little, of Wells, Mr. Cutler, of Ipswich, Dr. Fisher, of 
Beverly, Mr. Heard, of Ipswich, and two young gentle¬ 
men, Hubbard and Bartlet, from College. Got to Roch¬ 
ester. Wind, W. 

Wednesday, July 21. At a quarter after 7, set out 
from Rochester. Dined at Copps’s, in Wakefield. The 
upper part of Wakefield well settled. About 4 miles 
above Copps’s descended a steep hill, and came to a large 
brook, which vents into Pine River, a branch of great 
Ossapy. Crossed an old beaver dam on another branch 
of said brook. Passed over a mountain in New Garden, 
Seagel’s hill, from whence we had a very grand opening 
to the N., presenting to view distant ridges of very high 
mountains, rising behind each other, the farthest supposed 
to be the White Mountains; but, the air being hazy, could 
not certainly determine. Wind, S.E. 

Distance, 32 miles from Rochester Old Hill to Brown’s, 
at N. Garden, where we stopt. 

Joined company at Rochester; Mr. Enoch Wingate 
and Mr. George Place. 

Thursday, July 22. Set out from Brown’s. Seven 
and one-half miles from thence to Great Ossapy Pond, 
5 miles in length, and nearly round. Pine River comes 
into the south part of it. The Ossapy River runs out of 
the pond, first northerly, then turns easterly, under a large 



8 


mountain in Effingham , formerly called Seven Mountain ; 
now Green Mountain.* * * § 

Lovel’s fort at the north side of this great Pond, near a 
small stream. 

Eode through pitch pine 7 miles, to Eaton. Dined at 
Dr. Jackson’s. Corua f and White-face Mountains on the 
left. 

Crossed Little Pigwacket River (stopped at Abbot’s), 
then Saco Swift River, then Saco Main River, and got to 
McMillan’s at sunset. $ 

25 miles distance to-day. Found Mr. Whipple § and Mr. 
Evans ready to go with us. || 

Friday , July 23. At quarter past eight, A.M., set off 
for the White Mountains. When advanced about 7 or 8 
miles, had a full front view of the great Mountain,^]" which 
appeared like a naked rock, of its proper grey color, inclin¬ 
ing to brown, the channels where water descends plainly 
discernible, being whiter than the rest. Crossed the E. 
branch of Saco River, and the E. branch of Ellis River. 
Rode up the Mountains, by Ellis’s River, which runs down 
a long descent, and is almost one continued fall. About 
10 got to Copps’s, the last house; ** took some refreshment, 
and proceeded along the old Shelburne road, full of wind¬ 
falls and mires, and overgrown with bushes. About 4 


* Crossed Pine River, current N.W., about 4 miles before we came to Ossapy 
bridge. 

t Chocorua. — Ed. 

% At Conway. — Ed. 

On Esq. Merrill’s farm the remains of 2 Indian stockade forts. 

Esq. McMillan assured me there was snow remaining on the White Mountains, 
S. side, within 10 days past; the like was told me by Mr. Abbot; both of Conway. 

We had, at McMillan’s, full-grown cucumbers. At Brown’s, last night, new 
potatoes, about one-half grown. 

§ Col. Joseph Whipple, of Dartmouth, now Jefferson. — Ed. 

|| Our pilot, Captain Evans, assured me that when he was on the Mountain, 
June 19, 1774, the snow was 5 feet deep in one spot near the summit of the Moun¬ 
tain ; and that a fortnight before that, some of the people who were then at work 
with him on Shelburne road, found it 13 feet deep in the same spot. 

IT Subsequently called Mount Washington. — Ed. 

** In Jackson*— Ed. 



9 


o’clock got to the New River , which broke forth in 1775; 
it forms a cascade of upwards of 100 feet, visible at its 
descent into Ellis River, and has borne down rocks, 
trees, before it. I ascended above 100 feet, and some of 
the company higher; the cascade is varied and winding, 
in some places confined within 2 feet, in others forming a 
wide sheet, and on some flat rocks a bason. 

Three-fourths of a mile further brought us to our pro¬ 
posed encamping ground, which is near a meadow, in 
which Ellis’s River and a branch of Amariscogin have 
their heads; consequently, we are on the height of land 
between Saco and Amariscogin waters. Here we turned 
our horses into the meadow, and built a hut # of poles 
and bark, with an hemlock bed ; and, having made a good 
fire before itj retired to rest. This day fair and cool. 

Saturday , July 24. A fine morning. After breakfast, 
and due preparations, began to ascend the Mountain from 
the eastern side, our course about N.W. At the first steep 
ascent, Dr. F., finding a pain in his side, which disabled 
him, returned to the camp, where Mr. Whipple’s negro 
man attended to take care of the horses and baggage. 
We then ascended about 2 hours, keeping a large stream 
which runs off the Mountain into Ellis River on our left.f 
Having risen many very steep and extremely difficult 
precipices, I found my breath fail; and, the company hav¬ 
ing been obliged to make many pauses on my account, and 
the pilot supposing we were not more than half way to 
the Plain, a consultation was held, and it was thought 
best that I should return before we proceeded further. 


* While the hut was building, I walked into the meadow with Mr. Little, and 
took a view of the Mountain, which appeared in two very high peaks and several 
ridges, one of which was bare. Mr. Whipple, desiring to set the Mountain with 
the compass, I went again with him, and fell into a deep hole full of water up to 
my hips; returned and shifted as well as I could, but received so much damage 
from this accident that I was ill all night; feverish and weak. 

t This stream we called Cutler's River. We also saw a brook with a frothy scum, 
which, on tasting, proved to be saponaceous. 

2 




10 


Two of the gentlemen offered to be my company; but, 
thinking it would deprive them of the pleasure they ex¬ 
pected to reap from ascending the Mountain, I concluded 
to come down alone, keeping the stream on my right. In 
about an hour and half I got on level ground, and my 
voice was heard at the camp, where I arrived, I suppose, 
about 10 o’clock, much fatigued; took some refreshment, 
and went to sleep. # 

Saturday , p.m. Went with Dr. F. into the meadow, 
and examined a beaver dam, under which the water runs 
N. into Amariscogin branch; and, at a little distance out 
of the same meadow, it runs S. into Ellis River. The Dr. 
saw a blue bird, with a white head, which is said to be a 
saw-whetter , alias carrion-bird. As it grew toward night, 
we secured the horses, picked up wood for our fire, and, 
it beginning to rain, repaired our tent with bark, took all 
the baggage into it, anxiously expecting the return of our 
friends, but they appeared not; we therefore went to rest. 
The rain increased, and continued all night. Our tent 
leaked, and our fire decayed; but, by frequent attention, 
we kept it alive, and so continued to lay as that we avoided 
being wet. 

Sunday , July 25. At daylight it ceased raining.f Our 
anxiety about our friends was partly removed by hearing 
the report of a gun, which we answered; it was repeated 
by them once, and by us twice, and they presently after 

* In my descent saw and came down one precipice completely perpendicular, the 
stones faced and laid as regular as a wall of heivn stone, 4 or 5 feet high and 7 or 8 
rods long. 

The rocks covered with green moss, and the interstices filled with it, so as to 
bear our weight, though it gave way under our feet; in some places we slipped 
through. 

Instruments brought out: 2 barometers, 2 thermometers, 1 sextant, 1 telescope, 
2 surveying compasses, 1 chain. 1 barometer broke before we got to the Moun¬ 
tains. 1 thermometer rendered useless after we left the Mountains. 1 compass 
broke, the other barometer broke. These accidents were unavoidable, considering 
the rough ways we passed through, the rubs and knocks we endured in the woods; 
though, happily, no person received any greater damage than a broken shin. 

1 Insects very troublesome this morning. 



11 


arrived safe, having been obliged to pass the night on the 
Mountain, round a fire which they kindled, and which 
was their only defence against the rain. They had as¬ 
cended to the summit, but had not so good a view as they 
wished, the Mountain being most of the time involved in 
clouds, which rolled up, and down, and in every direction, 
above, below, and around them. After I left them, the 
ascent became much more steep and difficult, the growth 
shorter and shorter, till it came to shrubs, then short 
bushes, then a sort of grass called winter grass, mixed 
with moss. The bushes are either fir or spruce. A sort 
of red berry and blue berry grow on small vines. 

The Plain is composed of stones, covered with moss 
mixed with this winter grass; the moss of a light grey 
colour (that below is green), and so spread over the stones 
and their interstices as to look like the surface of a dry 
pasture or common (in some parts the interstices of the 
rocks were filled with moss; in others, open and dry). 
In some openings, water appeared. The area of this 
Plain is an irregular figure, supposed near a mile from the 
edge to the bottom of the pinnacle.* Sugar loaf is a pile 
of loose, dark grey rocks, supposed about 100 f feet per- 

* The clouds prevented their view of the Plain on the W. side, so that they 
could not determine its extent that way. 

t Afterwards, judging by some eminences which they measured, Mr. Cutler 
and the rest were satisfied the height of this pinacle [was] not less than 300 feet; 
but I suspect it is at least 1000, or it would make no figure at all on such an ele¬ 
vated plain. 

From the time of leaving the tent till their arrival at the top of the pin- h. m. 


nacle.6 51 

Stops deducted.1 38 

5 13 

Walking from the 1st summit over the plain to the 2d, or highest ... 1 21 

They set out from the tent at 15 m. after 6 a.m., and arrived at the 2d 

summit at 1.6 p.m. 

Left the pinnacle at.3 57 

Descended a precipice; returned and came by the 1st summit; left it at . 5 50 

Entered the woods.6 33 

Encamped by a fire.8 

Arrived the next morning at the tent.6 6 

I left the company on my return, at.8 20 










12 


pendicular height, and not so difficult of ascent as the 
precipice below the Plain, which, in some places, is inac¬ 
cessible; especially on the S.E. side; on the E. side they 
went up. (The degree of heat on the thermometer at the 
top of the Mountain was more than when they left the 
tent.) But the exercise of ascending so heated them, that 
when they came to rest on the top of the Mountain, they 
felt a coldness in the air which made them shiver like a 
frosty night in October. The weather was so thick that 
they could not observe the latitude, though a sextant was 
carried for the purpose. They cut the letters N. H. on 
the uppermost rock, and the letters of their names, with a 
chisel. 

After breakfast, Mr. C. went into the meadow and took 
a base and angles to measure the height of that part of 
the top of the Mountain visible from thence, which is not 
the highest pinnacle, but a bluff on the eastern side of the 
Plain; then, mounting our horses, we set out, about 9 
o’clock, for Mr. Whipple’s plantation, at Dartmouth; # joro- 
ceeded down Peabody River, keeping it on our left, after 
having crossed it near its source. This is the Shelburne 
road, which has not been travelled for some years, and is 
grown up with bushes and filled with wind-falls, the 
bridges broke, and the mires deep. After travelling 
about 6 miles, at 1 o’clock we found the road cut off by 
the River, which, in some violent flood, had changed its 
course more to the E., leaving the old channel on the op¬ 
posite side dry, as far as we could see. Here we sat down 
and dined,while our pilot went back to reconnoitre, and soon 
returned, reporting that the place where we should have 
crossed the river was about 100 rods back. We then went 
back, crossed the River, and took another old road, which 
had once been cut, but was now filled, and travelled with 
much difficulty, at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, 


* Now Jefferson. — Ed. 



13 


one going before with an ax. Met with a shower, which 
wet us to the skin; found ourselves deceived as to the 
distance, and were obliged to encamp in the woods, and 
turn our horses out to browse the bushes. This p.m. we 
crossed another branch of Amariscogin River,* called 
Moose River. 

Monday, July 26. After an uncomfortable night, we 
were so happy as to find our horses at a small distance 
from our hut, and proceeded on our journey, supposing 
ourselves within 8 miles of Mr. W.’s plantation, and that 
we had rode about 18 miles the day before. Along this 
road yesterday and this morning we saw the culheags, or 
log-traps, wdiich the hunters set for sables. They are com¬ 
posed of 2 sticks of about 4 or 5 inches diameter, and 
10 or 12 feet long, one side of each made smooth so as 
to shut close one upon the other; a semicircular in¬ 
closure of long chips of wood set in the ground, about a 
foot in diameter and 2 feet high, covered with bushes ; 
the logs are laid on the open side of this semicircle, and 
set apart by a small stick about 4 inches long, picked 
at the lower end, which is set on another horizontal 
stick, flat on the upper side and round underneath; this 
is also pointed at one end, where the bait is placed; two 
other chips are set without the logs to keep them steady, 
so as the upper one may fall directly on the lower one. 
The space between the traps is scented by drawing a piece 
of meat on the ground • the sable is thereby guided to the 
trap, and, putting his head into the hole between the 
logs, which is the only place where he can come at it, the 
motion of pulling out the bait springs the trap, and catches 
him by the head, or neck, or back. 

After riding four hours and a half, and being overtaken 
with another shower, having crossed the height of land 

* In the branches of Amariscogin which we crossed this day I observed a great 
number of tad-poles ; there was in Moose River and in a branch of Israel River wild oats, 
which our horses snapt at greedily. 



14 


between Moose River and Israel River, and forded the 
latter and a branch of it, we came to some old felled trees 
and got to Mr. W.’s opening. Had a full view of the 
Mountains covered with clouds, and got into a road which 
brought us to his house. 

His plantation is situated on the intervals formed by 
Israel’s River. The summit of the White Mountains 
bears S.E. from his house. Here we rested and were 
refreshed after a most tedious journey through the wil¬ 
derness. 

About 2 miles off is a pond where the moose at this 
season go to bathe, to get clear of the flies, and are some¬ 
times shot in the water. Mr. W. has a pair of moose 
horns which extend four and a half feet and weigh thirty- 
four pounds. 

Mr. Hight, who lives on Mr. Whipple’s place, told me 
he had seen snow on the N.W. side of the White Moun¬ 
tains within 3 weeks past. # 

From here, as the road goes, 11 miles to the nearest 
part of Connecticut River, in Northumberland. 

The land we passed through yesterday, between Pea¬ 
body River and Israel River, is called Durand; some of it 
very good. 

Tuesday , July 27. Cloudy on the Mountains. About 

* This information I believe was mistaken, and that instead of 3, he should have 
said 5 weeks. I have reason to think, however, and was so informed, that the 
snow lies longer on the S. side, where it is seen at Conway, than on the N. or N.W. 
side. The N.W. wind blows it over the tops of the mountains, and drives it into 
the long deep vallies or gullies, where it is formed into a very hard body, 20 or 40 
feet deep or more. 

Remark. If so vast a quantity of snow lodges and remains on the White 
Mountains, how many more mountains are there towards the N.W. whose frozen 
summits give the keenness to the wind. ’Tis not the lakes nor the forests that 
make the N.W. winds so piercing, but the hoary tops of infinite ranges of mountains, 
some of which, at the remotest regions, may retain the snow undissolved through 
the year. 

The long green moss on the steep sides of the Mountains serves as a sponge to 
retain the vapors which are brought by the winds in the form of clouds against 
these Mountains, and there deposited ; it also preserves the rain-water from running 
off at once, and keeps the springs supplied with a perpetual dripping. 



15 


10 o’clock clears up for about half an hour, so that we 
had a distinct view of the N.W. side of the White’s 7 sum¬ 
mits, ranging N.E. and S.W., the heads of 4 or 5 of them 
bald. From the accounts I have collected from near 
observers, as well as my own observations, have no doubt 
remaining that the sole cause of the bright appearance 
which these Mountains make is the snow which falls on 
their bald summits every year as early as September and 
goes not wholly off till July. The rocks of which the 
summits are composed are a dark grey covered with a 
yellowish moss; the appearance at the distance of 10 or 
15 miles is brown, excepting some streaks, which, at some 
seasons, are water-courses; these are of a lighter color, 
and are plainly discernible with the naked eye to differ 
from the other parts. There are also dark streaks, which, 
through the telescope, are seen to be the shaded sides of 
the long winding and deep valleys which are on every side 
of the Mountains. 

This p.m. a thunder shower. The people of this place, 
who are 5 or 6 families, assembled in Mr. Whipple’s barn, 
and I preached them a sermon, the first ever preached 
here, from 1 Cor. 6 : 19, 20. Mr. Little baptized 8 of 
their children. Mr. Cutler made the concluding prayer. 
38 people of the place were present, and seemed pleased 
with the attention paid them. # 

We attempted to take the height and distance of sev¬ 
eral of the neighboring Mountains, but they were so ob¬ 
scured by the clouds passing over and rising on them that 
we were obliged to desist. 


* As we passed through Eaton and Conway, the appearance of so many people, 
more than ever had been seen at once travelling that way, was very amusing to the 
people. We had 3 guns and 1 pair of pistols in the company. The barometers 
were slung across the back of one, and the sextant was carried in a large bag. 
This uncommon appearance was the subject of much speculation; and the good 
women, understanding there were 3 ministers in the company, were in hopes we 
should lay the spirits which have been supposed to hover about the White Mountains, 
an opinion very probably derived from the Indians, who thought these Mountains 
the habitation of some invisible beings, and never attempted to ascend them. 



16 


Wednesday , July 28. Six o’clock, morning, set out on 
our return, leaving Dr. Fisher behind, who is collecting 
birds and other animal and vegetable productions. Passed 
over part of Pondicherry Mountain, and about quarter past 
11 arrived at the Western Notch of the Whites, having 
crossed Amonoosuck and its branches several times, and 
seen a bear-trap on the road, constructed like the cul- 
heags, but larger and stronger. At the Notch a meadow, 
through which a brook runs into Saco River. This meadow, 
surrounded on all sides with mountains, some of them per¬ 
pendicular, is a singularly romantic and picturesque scene.* 
Mr. Cutler took an observation to ascertain the latitude. 
The narrowest part of this passage I measured, from one 
perpendicular rock to the other, and is 22 feet. The direc¬ 
tion of the defile N. and S.; on the W. side runs the brook. 
The Eastern is formed into a causeway and road with great 
labor and expense; it was formerly only a rough water¬ 
course, and not known till, about 13 years ago, two hunters 
passed through it; f soon after which the proprietors of land 
at the Upper Cohass formed a plan for a road through it, the 
only practicable pass through these Mountains to the upper 
settlements on Connecticut River; distance, 25 miles from 
Northumberland or Lancaster. The proceeds of a confis¬ 
cated estate, W. Stark’s, X have been applied, £400, toward 
making this road, which, for 100 rods or more down the 
southern side and along by the meadow on the top, is a 
work of great labor. Two streams come down the east¬ 
ern side of this defile, forming beautiful cascades. One of 


* The most romantic imagination here finds itself surprized and stagnated. 
Every thing which it had formed an idea of as sublime and beautiful is here real¬ 
ized. Stupendous mountains, hanging rocks, chrystal streams, verdant woods, the 
cascade above, the torrent below, all conspire to amaze, to delight, to soothe, to 
enrapture; in short, to fill the mind with such ideas as every lover of nature and 
every devout worshipper of its Author would wish to have, 
t Nash and Sawyer. — Ed. 

f Col. William Stark, a brother of Gen. John, the hero of Bennington. He was 
one of the proprietors of Eryeburg. He joined the British at the Revolution, and 
his estate was confiscated. — Ed. 




17 


them is so narrow as exactly to resemble a flume, and goes 
by that name. These run under bridges in the road, and 
wind away down its western side into Saco River. For 
2 miles from the summit of this romantic pass the Moun¬ 
tains on each side rise almost, and in some places quite, 
perpendicular, and shew several bare and whitish rocks 
with polished sides, totally inaccessible. Some of these, 
especially when crusted over with ice, may have given 
rise to the fable of the Carbuncle , with the help of a 
little imagination and the reflection of the moon or star 
beams. 

The Mountains continue on each side of the road at the 
distance of not more than a mile, and, in some places, not 
so much, for a long way, 8 or 10 miles from the Notch; 
and Saco River runs between them. This River is well 
known to rise and fall very quick; its descent is rapid and 
full of falls. Passed by Sawyer’s Rock, down which last 
summer a moose fell, and 2 men who saw him cut his ham¬ 
strings and his throat with a pocket-knife. Several of 
the branches of Saco River are now entirely dry. In 
one place the river threatens to cut off the road and 
change its course, as it has done before. At night got to 
Enoch Emery’s, # and lodged there.f 

Thursday , July 29. Breakfasted at McMillan’s, ^ parted 
with Mr. Cutler and company, and, with Mr. Little, pro¬ 
ceeded toward Fryeburg. Dined with Mr. Porter. After- 


* In Bartlett. —Ed. 

t We encompassed the White Mountains in riding about 70 miles, and, consid¬ 
ering the distance at which we were from them in some part of the compass, 
we judged the base of the Mountains would not be less than an n.w. 
area of 50 miles. The peaks or summits within this space we could 
not enumerate ; but all this body may properly be called one ridge 
or cluster of mountains, and the range extends N.E. and S.W. to an 
unknown distance. The form of this cluster which we encompassed 
seems to be about the form of an isosceles triangle, whose longest 
extremity is toward the S. 

Observed as we came along that the people made little smokes in their cow- 
yards to defend their cows against the flies and mosquitoes. 

f In Conway. — Ed. 



3 





18 


noon rode to Fryeburg ; visited Lovel’s Pond, the scene of a 
memorable battle with the Indians in 1725. Lovel’s march 
from Great Ossapy, which is not more than 20 or 22 
miles, brought him to the W. side of this Pond, where he 
saw, on a rocky point of land opposite, the distance of a 
mile or more, an Indian fishing, with a fowling-piece with 
which he had just before fired at some ducks. He was 
not set for a decoy, and has no pretensions to the character 
of an hero, as has been represented. To come at him they 
had to march 2 or 3 miles round the N.E. end of the Pond. 
They met him returning to the Indian fort, about 1 and a 
half miles from the Pond 5 he fired and wounded Lovel, 
and they killed him. They had left their packs on the 
pitch pine land at the N.E. end of the Pond. While they 
were gone after this Indian, 2 companies of Indians under 
Captains Paugus and Nathaniel, who had been down Saco 
River and were returning, came on their track and fol¬ 
lowed them to where they had left their packs, which they 
seized, and by that means found their number 34; their 
own, 41. (This account I had from Evans, who had it 
from one of the Indians that was in the fight.) They then 
lay in ambush for them among the brakes and wind-falls 
and shrub oaks on the pitch pine plain adjoining the 
Pond; and, when Lovel’s men returned to where they had 
left their packs, the Indians rose and fired on both sides of 
them. Lovel and some others were killed; the rest, think¬ 
ing to secure themselves, retreated (through a bog of 2 
or 3 rods width and 12 or 14 long) to the sandy beach 
of the Pond, hoping to screen themselves behind the trees 
which grew to the water’s edge, or some rising near the 
beach.* 

The place where they retreated is singularly situated. 
The Pond was in their rear, which here forms a cove; in 
their front was a bog; on their right, a brook, then un- 

* The Indians immediately drew off from Pigwacket, and left their own dead 
unburied, and ours not scalped. 



19 


fordable ; on their left, a rocky point; from this point, and 
from the bushes beyond the brook, the Indians enfiladed 
them, and fired at them from behind the bog. The beach 
being only a level sand, they were exposed on every side. 
A few pitch pine trees stood between the bog and the 
water; but these could afford them no shelter, as the 
enemy were on three sides of them. The trees still retain 
the marks of the balls, and the letters of the names of the 
dead who were buried here. It is astonishing that the 
Indians ever left the ground, as they had this company 
completely in their power, there being no possibility of 
their escape. Their situation was to the greatest degree 
hazardous and forlorn; more so than can be conceived by 
any person who has not visited the spot. 

Major Osgood told me he was one of a party who helped 
to run the Province line, some years ago, — the 60 miles 
end at the edge of the interval on Captain Brown’s land. 
They then measured 24 miles to Amariscogin, and 16 
miles beyond; 40 in all. I. R., # who had the direction, 
would not go farther, because their bread was out, though 
they had that morning killed a fine moose, and offered to 
proceed without bread. The end of the 40 miles is on 
high land, supposed within four miles of Umbagog Lake 
and in sight; the line would cross it. Shelburne lies. 3 
miles S. and 3 miles N. of Amariscogin. 

Captain Evans told me he lived at Penacook in the 
Cape Breton war, and that 5 men were killed there in 
August , 1747. The Indians had intended to attack the 
people in the meeting-house; but, seeing some of them go 
armed to meeting, were afraid. The next morning they 
waylaid the road and killed these men, who were going to 
N. Hopkinton; two months after killed another, who had 
just returned from 2 years’ absence at Cape Breton; one 
at Suncook. 


* Isaac Rindge, who surveyed this line in 1768. — Ed. 



20 


Grindstones are found at Fryeburg and at Amariscogin, 
of a fine grit, and hard; will do very well for small tools, 
and, with the help of rifle-sand strewed on them wet, will 
grind an ax. Captain Brown, at whose house I put up, 
has one. 

Friday , July 30. At half past six set out with Mr 
Little from Fryeburg, and rode through Brown’s field, 
chiefly pitch pine land. About 10 o’clock got to the great 
falls in Saco River. About half a mile above them are 3 
hills, and between the hills and the river 2 meadows, a 
ridge of land between them, over which the road passes. 
The meadows have a communication by a brook. These 
hills, I suppose, are Sunday’s Rocks. The land not 
good; pitch pine, mixed with white oak and whortleberry 
bushes. The falls we judged not more than 40 feet per¬ 
pendicular, though the descent may be as many rods. 
Up these falls the salmon cannot go, by reason of a rock 
at the bottom, which projects; they therefore pass up the 
Great Ossapy River, on which is the remains of an Indian 
weir, built with stones and wood, for taking them. We 
crossed this river about noon; our horses swam after a 
canoe, in which we put our saddles and bags; an old 
woman paddled us over. Got some dinner on the other 
side, at the house of one Thompson. From thence 12 
miles to the Little Ossapy, the land is extremely good, 
beech and maple; the lower part of the way well settled, 
good farms, plenty of grass and grain; the place is called 
Limerick. In the evening got to Massabesick; # crossed 
Little Ossapy on a bridge. Lodged at Captain Smith’s. 

Saturday , July 31. Parted with Mr. Little at Smith’s. 
Got Mr. Burley to pilot me across the meadow and woods 
3 miles to Mr. Bunker’s; breakfasted there, baptized a 
child of Gideon Walker, visited Jo. Hamilton, got to 
Sanford at dinner time; dined Emery’s; rode from thence 


Now Waterborough, in York County, Maine.— Ed. 



21 


in company with a man from Saco whose wife had run 

away with the Shakers and carried off 25 of his dollars ; 

he is going in pursuit of her ; got home 

well, about 

sunset. 



Stages and Distances Travelled. 



Miles. 


To Rochester. 

8 


New Garden. 

82 


Ossapy Great Pond. 

n 


Conway line. 

13 


McMillan’s. 

4 


Height of Land. 

18 



— 

m 

To the place where we crossed Peabody 



River. 

6 


To Whipple’s. 

20 


the Notch. 

14 


McMillan’s. 

20 



— 

60 

Fryeburg. 

8 


Great Ossapy. 

20 


Little Ossapy. 

12 


Captain Smith’s. 

7 


Bunker’s. 

3 


Dowty’s Falls. 

17 


Dover. 

14 



— 

81 


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